girl at large

easel update

Coast II, acrylic and ink on paper, 25.5" x 20"
Coast Night, acrylic on paper, 20" x 25.5"

poor Maman, literally.

Mom's purse was stolen last night while she and Bert were eating at DeCito. money, credit cards, French bank card---gone. (and i'm really bumming--she had our only pot of Carmex in there). that's what she gets for going to our local without me. the staff was just as upset as she was, Cute Waiter said he knew they'd be back to pay another time---they're there like clockwork often more than once a week.

the form at the Gendarmerie was in French, German, Italian and English--no trouble really there, they see this kind of thing quite regularly. Bert has a set of housekeys so they were able to get in the house, though he had to add a dark comment before going to bed : "I hope no one comes in and murders us in the night." nice.

i got a call this morning on my cell phone--a message from a Monsieur Bernard who found mom's "petite porte-monnaie" in the lane behind the restaurant where he works in Villeneuve-Loubet. he was so excited when i called him back--thrilled to bits that he was able to reach me, especially when he found out the wallet he found belongs to "Maman". he went on and on about how he had to try to figure out who this unfortunate dame was by sorting through the strange bits in her bag. and then he found my "girl at large" card with an obviously french phone number on it. formidable! and he's even kind enough to come to Antibes tomorrow morning to drop it off though it has to be early, as he says, because he has to have Sunday lunch with his Papa at Maman, "C'est tres important" you know. yes, i know.

p.s. oh, and we did the whole thing in french! i understood every word! proves my theory--when you HAVE to understand and speak another language, you CAN.

she's so popular

i got scolded again today for not bringing Miss Ruby with me to the Tabac. i scored smiles and laughs (so rare!) when i said, in french, that she's trying to quit! yeah me.

bienvenue!

Mike is coming for a visit! not until May though, i shall hardly be able to stand the anticipation! i should get some rest beforehand--i'm guaranteed not to get any sleep the week he's here.

And Miss Dawn is still considering her options for a visit this spring as well.

gee guys, good thing i ended up staying longer, i was supposed to be back in the States by now remember? though you could have always visited mom i suppose.

needing my modern fix

i have to have a Huf Haus. the entire thing is PRE-FAB in the factory in Germany--the structure up onsite and water-tight in ONE WEEK. freakin' brilliant. now, where's my latest copy of dwell magazine?

done already?

Haut-de-Cagnes

we've been feeling a little house-bound lately, so mom and i decided to spend the afternoon in the medival village of Haut-de-Cagnes (above Cagnes sur Mer), have a little lunch and a wander around in the tiny, charming lanes. lunch was great--the town is dead quiet this time of year, though it wasn't much busier when i was there this past summer (the tourists don't know that much about it and head to nearby and over-run St. Paul instead). i took a few shots for some future work, i'll probably return soon for some sketching--i had done Rue/Haut de Cagnes some time ago from sketches/pics of one of the narrow, moody streets. lunch was great; enough warm sunshine to eat outside with a sliver view of the sea, enjoying a warm slice of apple and pear tart. our wander around was great--though steep--until we inadvertently wandered right out of town! so, we really only killed about three hours and are back in the house again already. oops.

how do they do it?

i'm still amazed. i can still be stopped dead in my tracks in rue d'Antibes, mesmerized. how do they do it?

how do these women walk in those heels? i'm not talking cushy platforms or one inch business heels or even accommodating stewardess numbers. i'm talking 4 to 6 inches of spike resting precariously on a rubberized cap the size of a pencil eraser. the angles of these things are sharp, steep and terrifying to me. how the tendons of the ankle can handle the stress, i can't imagine. i don't even think Barbie could manage it.

and everyday, everywhere i see ladies of every age wearing them shopping, walking the dog, even running to catch the train--over gaping grates, through cobblestones more closely resembling earthquake rubble---teetering and tottering they go in shoes that can only be described as death-defying.

i'm a convert to French fashion sense, i won't deny it. i've been wearing mostly black for a decade (longer if you count the mod years), i've traded in standard cut jeans for boot-leg in a mild-to-moderate camel-toe fit, most of my handbags now come in bags of their own, i've nipped in my dresses, tossed out the baggy sweaters, paid so much for bras and undies that i can list them on my renters insurance, and am no stranger to the endless ways a scarf can be tied. yes, Dawn, it is a law that you have to wear a scarf here.

but those heels. there are some things i just can't bring myself to do. i'll blame it on my fear of hieghts.

in another life

i've submerged myself in Ryan's box-of-books these past few days and have made my way through two volumes of mildly depressing New York-childhood-with-mentally-ill neighbors/parents/siblings short stories unscathed. (with Ryan, there is always a fair amount of gloom-and-doom). i was feeling a bit read-out when, like the pickle in a sandwich, mid-way through the stack (and my week) was a surprise! Sand in My Bra and other Misadventures (funny women write from the road) was hysterical. i laughed so loud the nieghbor girl behind the living room wall put down her karaoke microphone long enough to hear what that sound was.

Ryan informed me that Canterbury Books in Madison, WI is closing; the creator of Sand in My Bra...was equally as disheartened to learn of it. but good news, it shall go on under new management (but why change the name? it's a good name).

i tell you, just looking at the pics online makes me lonesome for a decent bookstore (cozy and inviting with eclectic selections rather than cold and indifferent with nothing much more than Provencal cookbooks). what i could do (!) with the local english language bookshop if i could get my hands on it....

a Swede in Chicago

young, blonde Swedish Emma is going to be spending three months working in Chicago. mom and i armed her with lists of places to go, things to see, all those 'must do's' of one of my favorite cities (if only it wasn't so cold!!)..things like walking through the Giant Heart at the Museum of Science and Industry...anyone have anything to add to the list?

Peg found this one...

first the Museum of Bad Art, now this..The Museum of Menstruation...another classic!

en greve, quelle surprise

train interior, views from train along the coast

the train operators were on strike yesterday, from what i can gather to protest a regulation proposal for restricting their ability to go on strike. hmm.

easel update

Olives, acrylic, pencil and pastel on board, 25.5" x 19.75"
Coast I, acrylic and pencil on paper, 25" x 20"

todays Bert-ism

"I'm getting a little drifty in my head".

two very different takes on Cannes

Cannes I, acrylic and pastel on paper, 25" x 19.75"
Croissette/Cannes, acrylic and pastel on canvas, 35.5" x 29.5"

chien billet

as if it isn't hassle enough to get fearful Miss Ruby on and off the train--today i got stopped for not having a ticket for her! i use the machines to buy my tickets, but of course the machines don't issue dog tickets. so, i missed the earlier train to stand in line to BUY A TICKET FOR THE DOG. "01chien"=1.30 euro. for a ten minute ride, standing up the both of us. i don't mind, it's fair really and i'm happy that i'm allowed to take her on at all--what i don't get is that i've walked by the same ticket inspectors four times a week with the same dog and the same one PERSON ticket for the last four months without a word. a beaurocrat must have recently decided that all this free dog-travel must stop! imagine.

after some online research, i see that she needs a ticket (though why randomly Messieurdames Ticket Inspectors?) because she is over 6kilos (13lbs). hmm--diet time!

Bert makes a friend

i sent Bicycling-Through-France Tom over to sail on Tishie Mae with Bert yesterday---if he's come all this way, he should see the coast from the sea, it's so beautiful. Tom is such a good guy. as Bert said, "He brought beer. And the right kind too." good boy. the more i see, the more i learn that "sailing" really means "sitting around a pricey toy drinking cheap beer all day."

Tom's on his way this morning, bicycling on to his next destination--Barcelona. Bon Continuation!

MoBA

this is classic...the Museum of Bad Art.

boys!!!

Dale is back, we've got Tom here with us, and this weekend Nick came for a visit.

i've put the toilet seat back down no less than 32 times in three days.

other than that, no complaints---it's nice actually to have boys around again. no matter what i make--they eat it. (i'm not known for much in the cuisine department, aside from American-style pancakes--which they ate with their hands!)

cycling through France in the winter

we (Dale, Liz, John and i) had dinner last night with a young chap by the name of Tom. Tom is English. Tom is from Elham (the village where Dom's parents have the pub/restaurant). Tom is a young farmboy doing seasonal landscaping work. Young Tom has the winter free. So, Young Adventurous Tom is BICYCLING (from England, from Elham) THROUGH FRANCE IN THE WINTER. contrary to what most would believe, this activity is NOT
a) the cost of losing a bet
b) a dare
c) the result of a break from reality

so, here he arrived, bicycle in hand, at Liz's doorstep the other night, happy as she says to "kip on the carpet". and what a lovely boy! so well mannered, must have been well taught by mom. we've all insisted he stay on another night to join us for dinner again and i'm keen to have him meet Bert tomorrow afternoon down at the boat---they seem to have so much in common.

easel update

Lilies, oil pastel on linen canvas, 29.5" x 35.5"
Wall I, acrylic on heavy paper, 20" x 25"
(click on title for details and price)

i had a really good time getting messy with Lilies---oil pastel on canvas is yummy. the subject matter is a tad twee, but the medium is expressive--you can see my fingerprints even. and yes, the second piece is more abstracted than usual, but i'm going that way these days, and i like it. it's more about studying contrast and color combinations than anything--expect more of these--how the light affects the structures here, light and shadow and color simplified, abstracted--i'm seeing a whole series coming this spring.....

don't panic, more boats are coming too. damn, what is it with everyone liking the boats so much?!?

home sweet borrowed home

i seem to spend most of my time here---the living room! although the weather is finally warming up, i'm painting in here more now, so there you go. that middle shot shows the new curtains mom and i devised the other week for the front room in Cannes--they make a big difference and neither Jack nor Ruby have destroyed them yet, a big bonus. i love being able to stay at Dale and Dom's in Cannes, don't get me wrong..but i am itching for a place of my own, i need to exercise my domestic demons soon.

wonder if i could get a postcard from each and every state?

a container ship on the Savannah River, a Nebraska landscape complete with church spire

happiness in the mailbox today--not only did i get the two postcards above (thank you Sony and Grandma Eileen), but Ryan's Christmas/Birthday package FINALLY arrived--along with a 20 euro customs bill (but don't let that keep you from sending me presents!). well, no wonder--the thing weighs a ton---he must have sent me fifteen books! which will all be read with great pleasure--i've reread every John Irving and Minette Walters in the house and am hungry for something new (no doubt the books from Ryan will be somewhat heavier going than my usual fare--he's so collegiate the little bugger)...

the fast train, ferocious dogs and finger food

Miss Ruby is afraid of the trains, in fact she fears the entire train experience--the train station, getting on and off the train, watching the high-speed train bullet by, riding the slower regional train, even the loudspeaker announcements through her off-balance. going back and forth from Cannes to Antibes by train is still a snap--provided i pick her up and carry her and don't mind de-furring my clothes upon arrival.

the other night, she was showing marked improvement--walking into the station herself, though haultingly. as we turned the corner on to the platform, she froze. a few yards away was the most terrifying looking dog we've ever seen. it was a giant pitbull-rotweiler-albino-demon cross, complete with intimidating chain, muzzle and security officers. Ruby understandably hit the pavement, trembling. first the train, now this! one security officer was amused--"Regardez--l'aperitif!" he said to the drooling beast.

speaking of aperitives, amuse-bouches, appetizers---i'm amused myself to know the french use so many ways of saying hors d'oeurves, without ever once in my experience using the word hors d'oeurves.

(though to be accurate, l'aperitif is usually a starter drink, not a food...wonder why he choose that word? or maybe i misheard..wouldn't be the first time).

what did he say?

i have a friend, Kristan, who has kept a quote board for years. say something silly in her presence and it's likely to be posted on her wall the next day for eternity. i think mom and i need an entire quote board for Bert alone. just a few recent ones:

"It's good to see you've got that cooking thing down." (while eating mom's home made dinner for the 372nd night in a row)
"I've figured out the shrouds." (some such thing about the boat)
"They're just not clean." (while boiling toothbrushes)

will work for food

Margaret has a job interview this week, Maria has four strong leads for her new property management work (with some spillover work for me) and i've had two good responses to my work inquiries...things are looking good this week. could there be a 'career' star in our houses or some such hippydippy thing?

i tell you, this poverty diet is working out though...size 12 jeans here i come!

oh ok, just one more then....

sorry to be off-line so much this past week---have been spending most days recovering from my nights. Dom is back in town for the week, Dale is here now as well and well...i'm not sure who is the bad influence on who, but i haven't seen 9am in quite awhile!

lovely to have everyone back together---dinners out, good laughs over drinks, etc. i'll miss Dom when she's gone next week.

words of wisdom from the wizened old sailor, i think...

today's Uncle Bert-ism, after a day single-handing on Tishie Mae: "I had the perfect day today...absolutely perfect. Then a seagull took a giant crap on the new main sail. Just goes to show ya, no day can be perfect."

and another: "It's all just an illusion. I mean, that's what life is---you think you're going somewhere but you're not. But, jesus, you've got to have your tv."

um, ok.

it could be loads worse

winter 1974 and winter 1977 (by which time we'd graduated from cardboard and a bit of string to a proper sled)

i have to remind myself of winters like these when i find it too chilly and grey here this winter...it's all a matter of degrees. no complaints here today! at least it's not minus 20 (F) windchill with six inches of snow on the ground like it is in parts of the American Midwest.

my own personal Discovery Channel

Miss Jack the cat went on heat yesterday..not fun. Miss Ruby seems to think she can do the duty. great--i have a cross-species lesbian dog. did i mention she's fixed? good grief.

perks

my brother works for the coolest (and kookiest) place...wouldn't it be nice if a large part (or any part) of your job included humor like this?

Bon Annee!

well, here starts 2004! this past year has been a wonder. and i'm still here, living in the south of France. go figure. i arrived one year ago today with two suitcases, a trembling dog in a crate and twenty bucks to my name. jobless, homeless, scared out of my wits with nothing but dog biscuit crumbs in my pocket. what a way to start an adventure!

and here i am a year later, sketching and painting most every week day, speaking passable French and learning more everyday, taking up pottery and sailing, having a blast getting to know my mom as an adult, having enough good friends to have TWO New Year's Eve parties to attend, and having more good friends kind enough to trust me to care for their apt. and cat (and in the process giving me a place to live and a way to extend my stay!), and having just met a very likely candidate for the previously unoccupied position of Boyfriend. a good year!